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Should I put mulch around my trees? Yes! Chipped woody material, sometimes called "arborist chips," give the soil and your trees added nutrients, help retain much needed moisture, regulate soil temperature and reduce weeds. Combined, these can even help your tree grow faster. How do I properly mulch a tree? Spread the mulch evenly around the tree, in a donut shape. Leave 3-6 inches around the trunk and avoid mounding the mulch against the trunk like a volcano. As a general rule, you should be able to see the root flare - this is the spot where the tree trunk and and the roots begin. Rake the mulch out in all directions to a distance of 3-6 feet from the center of the tree and 2-4 inches deep. This mulch ring will help retain moisture, cools the soil and reduces competition from grass. Over time, the mulch will decompose, adding essential nutrients back into the soil. Plan to replenish the mulch yearly to help keep your trees happy. For quick reference, download Proper Mulching Techniques from the ISA (International society of Arboriculture). Where can I learn more about the science? The Elisabeth C Miller Library and University of Washington Botanic Gardens Gardening Answers database  provides more details. Now, how do I get chips? Chips may be available from your project with Tree133. Please contact our office  for more information. We also suggest signing up for ChipDrop  - a free delivery service. What if I'm still not sure what to do? Please contact Tree133  if you have specific questions about how to use mulch to improve your trees' health. updated 3/10/2022

Tree133 has worked on this beautiful laceleaf maple (Acer palmatum) for the past few years. In fall of 2019, we removed dead/decaying foliage and interior deadwood as well as a few damaged interior limbs (abraded by other branches). That first phase greatly improved the tree’s appearance and we noticed better foliage conditions the following spring. This January, we performed light raising and thinning to improve light/airflow throughout the canopy and expose a bit of the interior branch architecture. This pruning phase removed 5-10% of live foliage using cuts up to 1/2-inch diameter. We are fortunate to have this tree in our neighborhood and enjoy watching its response to each stage of pruning.

What's happening to my birch tree? Here in the Pacific Northwest, the culprit could be a 1/2-inch long beetle called the bronze birch borer (BBB). You'll likely never see these insects. They lay eggs under the bark where the larva grow by feeding on the tree's sensitive cambium layer. Then, the adult beetle "chews" its way out and flys away to reproduce and repeat this cycle. The first signs of BBB activity are typically wilted leaves near the top of the tree. Twig and branch dieback happen next. Later, their distinctive "D-shaped" exit holes can be found on limbs in the upper tree canopy Typically, BBB infests birch trees that are stressed or have already begun to decline. European white bark birch (Betula pendula) is most susceptible. Paper birch (Betula papyrifera) is also vulnerable. Trees that are weakened or stressed are most susceptible to the Bronze Birch Borer. These trees evolved to grow in cool, moist conditions. In landscape settings, these trees are often planted on exposed sites with low soil moisture. Trees that have broken in a windstorm or heavily pruned are at greater risk. Infected trees may decline for several years before dying, although they may die during a single year if conditions are particularly hot and dry. Research shows the decline of a birch tree may be reversed in the early stages but trees are unlikely to recover once 50% or more of the crown is damaged. (US Forest Service) Read more at: Oregon State University Extension: Homeowner Guide to Managing Bronze Birch Borer What Can Property Owners Do? Understand the damage - trees can be preserved with early interventions Treat with insecticides - applied by a licensed tree health professional Tree133 works with property owners in and around Seattle to preserve trees and mitigate tree hazards. If you have questions about birch trees on your property, contact the certified arborists at Tree133 ,   we are ready to help!

During periods without rainfall, trees should be thoroughly watered on a regular schedule. Slow, deep watering provides a cool drink for thirsty trees and creates a water reserve, much like filling up a sponge. Tree roots draw from the reserve until the next watering session. This encourages development of deeper roots and helps sustain trees during hot dry summers. A thick layer of woody mulch around your tree  is also valuable to help retain soil moisture. Current science suggests deep, soaking irrigation applied every 3-4 weeks is best. Water your trees during summer months without significant rainfall, typically June - September, adding May and October as needed. Trees For Seattle recommends that newly planted young trees need 15-20 gallons of water twice per week. Mature trees  need substantially more water, potentially 1-3 hours of soaking irrigation each month, depending on tree size. Urban landscapes often have compacted soils which makes it difficult for water to penetrate top layer of soil. A lawn sprinkler is NOT adequate and can promote shallow tree roots. Trees do not receive sufficient water from lawn irrigation systems and schedules. We suggest using a deep root watering probe  that connects to your garden hose to deliver water directly to the tree’s root zone. Start 3-6 feet from the base of the trunk and push the tool 6-12 inches into the ground to get below the surface compaction layer. Turn the water on low and let it run for 15-20 minutes. Then, move the probe to a second location (1-2 big steps) within the drip line of the tree - the area between the edge of the foliage and the tree trunk. For trees up to 12 inches diameter, water in 2-4 locations around the tree. Increase the number of locations for larger trees. You can also water your trees with just a hose. Set to low flow (just above a trickle) and thoroughly saturate the soil. It is important to run the water long and slow to avoid run-off and evaporation. Move the hose every 15-20 minutes. Do you have questions about when and how much to water your trees? Contact the certified arborists at Tree133. We are happy to help!

So you want to add a tree to your property? In this video, learn tips and techniques for successful planting of small trees, including root washing and pruning, preparing the planting hole, planting depth, watering and mulching. Contact Tree133  if you have questions about tree care on your property.

Look up in a healthy forest and you'll likely see a snag - a standing dead or dying tree - often missing the top or most of the large branches. Snags provide rich habitat for birds, mammals and insects that use nearly every part of these "dead" trees. A healthy urban forest also includes snags. Portions of declining trees retained in residential yards provide critical wildlife habitat and a refuge for hundreds of creatures. Wildlife trees create opportunities to observe birds and mammals that nest in hollow cavities. Snags attract insects which in turn become a feast for other wildlife, like the Pileated Woodpecker. Higher perches are unobstructed "lookouts" for raptors while the nooks and crannies may become hidden food storage for squirrels and other small mammals. Certified Arborists at Tree133 help clients enhance their yards by creating snags rather than completely removing declining trees. Each tree must be carefully evaluated to make sure it is structurally sound and appropriate to retain. We use "coronet" cuts to imitate breakage that might happen in a storm. Some snags are very natural-looking while others are more artistic. Each snag is unique, benefiting native wildlife and attracting new visitors to your yard. Contact Tree133 to learn about creating a wildlife snag on your property.

Two common "defects" in large conifers are codominant structure – multiple competing tops – and the development of "overextended" limbs beyond the natural canopy shape. Both of these increase the likelihood of a large failure and resulting consequences. However, there are proven methods to manage these conditions and provide peace of mind for homeowners. Subordination Pruning This technique for managing codominant structure “slows down” the growth of one leader and promotes dominance in the other. By intentionally removing the the top of one leader with a carefully placed pruning cut (3-4 inches diameter). This type of gentle subordination will encourage the tree to naturally direct energy into the taller remaining top. Please note: this is not the same as "topping" a tree. Topping is simply a term for over pruning with large cuts that cause structural decay and lead to the development of poorly attached branches. Canopy Reduction The proven strategy to manage overextended limbs is reduction pruning. With this technique, the length and end-weight of large limbs are reduced by 15-20%. This “shortens the lever arm” and directly reduces the likelihood of failure. Targeted pruning at the end of the limb, using cuts up to 3 inches in diameter, promotes rapid wound closure. Retaining interior foliage protects tree health and encourages lateral growth, rather than extension. Please note : canopy reduction is very different from the antiquated practice of “wind thinning” or "windsailing" of conifers. These detrimental practices remove entire branches with the intention of allowing wind to pass through the tree. There is no scientific basis for this practice. Removing entire limbs actually promotes development of longer, larger limbs that are more likely to fail and more damaging when that happens. Cable Support Systems In codominant trees, limbs and foliage tend to grow outward on each stem and naturally create leverage. This generates outward force on the point of attachment. Further, narrow "v-shape" unions between codominant stems are significantly weaker compared to more open "u-shaped" unions. These factors increase the likelihood of failure at codominant unions. Subordination and/or canopy reduction pruning is the first step to mitigate this risk. Installation of a cable support system provides a higher level of protection which is particularly valuable when the tree is located near significant targets (e.g. structures, vehicles, pedestrians, etc.) If you have questions or concerns about large conifers on your property, contact Tree133 .

We are used to looking up at trees. But look down at the base of the trunk and imagine roots extending 2x the width of the canopy (or more) all around the tree. The physics of trees are pretty amazing and often misunderstood. For instance, many people don't realize the most sensitive roots are found in the upper 6-12 inches of soil. This makes them easily susceptible to damage. However, they are not visible beneath a lawn or landscaping and thus are easily forgotten. Construction within a tree's root zone can have severe and lasting impacts. Installing a fence, paving a driveway, building a patio or digging for a drain may cause permanent damage to roots and surrounding soils. Cutting large roots (greater than 2 inches diameter) can negatively impact tree health and stability. Soil compaction by foot traffic, wheeled carts, machinery or heavy materials can also negatively impact tree health or lead to failure in a tree that is already stressed. The easiest way to protect your trees is to consider the root zone in your planning and then install temporary tree protection fencing to prevent damage. A common guideline is to install protective fencing at the "drip line" of the tree (ie. the outer circumference of the canopy). This fencing helps remind everyone to... Store materials away from the tree Prevent driving vehicles and heavy equipment over tree roots Avoid attaching anything to the tree using nails or spikes A Certified Arborist can help you determine where and how the fence should be installed for maximum benefit. We also recommend adding signage to help everyone understand the purpose of the tree protection zone. Printable Sign - City of Seattle This reference guide from ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) is a helpful resource. If you have any questions about how to protect trees on your property during a project, contact Tree133.

Trees are biologically designed to withstand wind and load. However, heavy foliage/fruit or a weather event may cause a split in a small tree. Tree133 recently completed a small cabling project on a redbud that split in last winter's snow. As the tree is a sentimental favorite of the homeowner, she had tried a variety of DIY solutions with limited results before calling for help. With careful reduction pruning to gently reshape the tree and installation of a cabling system, this tree will remain a focal point in her garden for many years. If you have questions about your trees, contact a professional arborist at Tree133 .

While trimming small trees in the yard may seem like a simple DIY project, pruning is much more than simply sawing off limbs or giving the tree a "haircut" by removing outer foliage. If too much live tissue is removed, an otherwise healthy tree can become stressed or decline. Proper pruning is based on the scientific principles of plant physiology. It promotes beneficial growth, improves plant health, removes damaged limbs and can increase flower and fruit production (if desired). Together, these benefits enhance the aesthetic appeal of your tree and add value to your property. At Tree133, we use scientifically sound practices to improve tree structure and promote long-term health. We follow best practices from the American National Standards Institute (ANSI A300) regarding pruning methods, techniques and even the tools we use. Our Certified Arborists follow ANSI standards in all aspects of our work. We are careful to: Retain foliage to protect tree health Preserve branching structure to promote strength and resilience Protect other parts of the tree during pruning Use only non-invasive climbing techniques (no spikes) for pruning Effective pruning requires combination of scientific knowledge and practical experience. It can feel overwhelming to those not familiar with the techniques. Here at Tree133, we can answer your questions and work with you to determine the best approach to care for your trees. Click here to contact us today ! Before Katsura after pruning

Craig was invited into the the TreeStuff Micro Rigging Lab at TCI Expo 2019 to talk about rigging angles to minimize load in the tree. Craig and Tree133 are committed to sharing our knowledge to help improve the safety and skills of fellow arborists. Submit a training inquiry to learn how we can help improve skills for you and your crew. * Read Joe Harris' article Working the Angles

Hemlock Removal & Maple Reduction – Vashon Island, WA Until we saw this scenario first-hand, it was very difficult to envision… a failed Western Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla) lodged against a tree house in a Big leaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum). Even after completing the work, it’s still hard to describe. The tree house was frequently used by the client’s children, and the declining Maple was already a concern. The tree was in severe decline with more than half of the canopy dead. Typically, Maple limbs deteriorate rapidly and are prone to sudden failure. This existing hazard was compounded by the newly failed Hemlock putting pressure on the Maple and directly on the tree house itself. To address the situation and make the area safe for children, we stabilized the Hemlock with rigging lines and carefully removed it from the Maple tree. Next, we significantly reduced the Maple’s declining canopy to create a wildlife habitat snag. Retaining this snag will provide great perching and nesting habitat for native birds and a great outdoor learning opportunity for the client’s children. Contact Tree133 for help removing hazard trees and creating wildlife snags on your property. * This project was completed together with Michelle Ramsden.